Understanding Different Types of Hem Stitches

Welcome to our blog post about hem stitches! Hemstitching is an essential skill for any sewist.

Hemming stitch is not only a beautiful and decorative stitch that adds a professional finish to any garment, but it also helps to stop the fabric from fraying and adds strength and stability to the seam. In this post, we’ll explain different types of hem stitches and how to use them. We are covering everything from basic hand stitches to more advanced machine stitches, so you’ll be able to find the perfect hem stitch for any project. Let’s get started!

Please note that hemming can be done both by hand and using a sewing machine. However, many people prefer hand sewing to add decorative stitches to the hem. We are discussing six types of hemming stitches in detail here.

1. What is a Simple Hemming Stitch

It is used on almost every garment. It can also be replaced by a simple running stitch, but to enhance the beauty of a garment, hemming is used as the most important stitch. This stitch is almost invisible on the right side of the garment and has tiny stitches on the wrong side.

How to Sew a Simple Hem by Hand

Once you are ready to begin sewing your hem, ensure you have a single thread in your needle. Then, it would be best to take a tiny margin of the cloth or a single strand from the turned-in surface. This will help you achieve a neat edge and a finished look. Once you have your single strand of cloth, carefully pass the needle through it and the surface of the cloth. With each stitch, be sure to keep your stitches small and even to ensure the best results. This is used on sleeves, neck, skirts, etc.

A Simple hemming stitch can be done using a sewing machine by doing a running stitch.

2. What is a Slip Hem Stitch?

Similar to simple hemming but the stitches are taken at a little distance from each other. It’s usually used on slippery materials like silk, nylon, etc.

How to sew a slip hem by hand

As the name signifies, this stitch is similar to hemming but in a more lateral (slipping) position. Used to finish cuffs, necklines, etc. Watch the below video to understand the steps required to do a slip hem.

3. What is a blind hem stitch or invisible hem stitch?

As the name suggests this stitch is almost invisible to the naked eye. It has to be done with great care to give a neat finish. It is used mainly in men’s wear.

How to sew a blind hem by hand

Sewing a blind hem by hand can be challenging, but with a few simple steps, you can create a professional look. When creating the blind hem, it is important to ensure that the turned-in part is stitched so closely to the main body of the garment that it takes only one strand of thread at a time. This makes the hem almost invisible, giving the garment a sleek, polished look. Watch the above video to understand each step of sewing a blind hem.

Blind hem can also be done using a sewing machine. Specially built blind hem feet are available in the market, but sometimes, doing it by hand makes it better.

4. What is a narrow hem stitch?

A narrow hem is a hemstitch in which stitching is done very close together, giving it a very narrow seam allowance. It is usually used to finish men’s garments like shirts, coats, etc., and is considered to be very strong.

How to sew a narrow hem

Stitches are placed as close as possible using a single thread. This method of taking the needle in and out of the turned-in and the rest of the garment firmly stitches in place the turned-in part.

Narrow hem can be done using a sewing machine or simply by hand. The below video shows you how to sew a narrow hem using a sewing machine.

5. What is a Rolled Hem Stitch or Pico Stitch?

Used on fine materials. Edging of saris, edges of rills, puff sleeves, etc., are finished using rolled hem.

How to sew a rolled hem 

It is similar to simple hemming, but instead of taking a straight band of cloth as the trending portion, a small edge is rolled between the thumb and forefinger, and the stitch is placed on the inside surface.

The video below shows you how to sew a rolled hem by hand. The rolled hem stitch, also known as the Pico Stitch, can be done by hand or by machine.

Rolled Hem by Sewing Machine

6. What is a Circular or Curved Hem Stitch?

A type of hem only, but used on bias-cut cloth. When one needs to turn a straight edge on a bias cloth, it is difficult to do so, that is when this stitch comes in handy. Used on umbrella cut frocks etc. when the edge of the garment is always cut on the bias.

How to Sew a Circular or Curved Hem

Sewing a curved hem can be tricky, but with a few simple steps, you can achieve a beautiful result. To begin, the bias-cut cloth is turned inside out and then a temporary stitch is put in loosely. Next, the thread is pulled a little to give small gathers. After that, the gathers can be spread out and then hemmed into place. With some patience and practice, you can master this technique and create stunning garments!

The below video shows you how to sew a curved hem using a sewing machine or by hand stitch.

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